Edmond Roudnitska, A French Creator of fragrance


Edmond Roudnitska was more than just a creator of fragrance. He also devoted much of his time to understanding the true sense of the words “to create” and “Creation”.

 Edmond Roudnitska (1905-1996) was a French master perfumer and author. He is known for creating some of the most famous perfumes in the world, such as Dior Eau Sauvage, Diorissimo, and Rochas Femme. Many of his creations are still in production today…

Edmond Roudnitska

 Once Again Coming to Grasse, Edmond Roudnitska was born in Nice as we know that’s very near to Grasse, the fragrance capital of the world. Roudnitska actually entered the fragrance industry lacking education in the vocation that his was later to dicover. With no background in perfume, he learned everything from scratch but was soon promoted to take charge of the physico-chemical control of a fragrance company. Wow… Have you ever think??? Yes, Passion can make everything possible…: D

 A year later, Roudnitska was sent to the Paris to take over from a top perfumer of the company where he was essentially self-taught. A fantastic career followed thanks to all his work and efforts as well as his creative genius. His entire life was a constant creation…

 Through the course of his life, Roudnitska met many influential people from the world of fashion, art and science. Among the most prominent were Marcel Rochas, Christian Dior and Emile Hermès for whom he created his best known fragrances which are still on sale on the international market today…

 In 1946 he founded “Art et Parfum”, a private creative laboratory for perfumery first based in Courbevoie (near Paris) then located in Cabris near Grasse, also his home, where he lived until his death in 1996.

 Perfume Shrine embarked on a mission: to direct and discuss one of the bastions of chypre: la maison Dior in its former glory, when under the baguette of Edmond Roudnitska and Paul Vacher it produced classics that remain up there in the pantheon for all of us to worship.

Rochas Femme

 For him it is not the sense of smell or the materials that are important, but rather the spirit which, playing with forms, will coax the latter with the aid of the former. This point of view had been forgotten for decades when perfumes came out with the eye more on the commercial than the artistic, only to be revived when certain niche companies came into the fore dynamically. Roudnitska bases his axiom in the comparison to other art forms.

 “A beautiful perfume is the one which gives us a shock: a sensory one followed by a psychological one. A beautiful perfume is one with happy proportions and an original form”. He often used to say that.

Dior Eau Sauvage

 He thought, perfume composition should be unique, much like a musical piece, and protected against “plagiarism”. To this he was adamant.

 But it was his meeting with Serge Heftler-Louiche, director of parfums Christian Dior that cemented his style and directed him into a lucrative business and artistic collaboration that lasted for decades and it is interesting to juxtapose the chypres he produced for them with Femme. Christian Dior opened shop in 1945 under the insistence of the businessman Marcel Boussac. A new perspective to fashion was brought with his New Look, which took women back to the era of crinolines, in a way, counter-revolutionising what Cadolle and Chanel had accomplished through the use of pliable materials that helped women become the men in their lives in all areas besides the boudoir.

Diorissimo

 As I said before, The year was 1947 and Dior came out with his first scent, Miss Dior, as homage to his sister. Credited to Paul Vacher, based on a formula suggested by Jean Carles and reorchastrated by Roudnitska in 1992 in extrait de parfum, it is nothing short of a classic and the introduction of a big trend in the coming years: the floral chypre; but with an animalic twist down the line, of which more later on.

But it was in 1949 that Diorama, a fruity chypre, was created by Roudnitska. With it he found a balance between complexity and clear vision that captures several olfactory nuances: spicy, floral, fruity, animalic and all enrobed in a sensual feminine dress.

 Roudnitska’s most successful –commercially certainly! – scent entered the scene in 1966: Eau Sauvage. A chyprish citrus for men with the daring floral note of jasmine through the use of hedione. In this Roudnitska culminated his aesthetic odyssey of the sparseness of composition with an artistic merit that defies criticism. Diorella (1972), with its foot in the fruity tradition of Diorama, was the feminine chypre counterpart to Eau Sauvage, enigmatically relying on very few materials to give a very fresh, very young fragrance and which Roudnitska himself considered one of the best in his career. Dior Dior, a woody floral, issued in 1976, never took off commercially and was destined to be discontinued till now.

 

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41 Comments

  1. Juice said,

    March 31, 2010 at 9:17 pm

    Thanks for visiting my blog! It’s always nice to find other perfume enthusiasts!

  2. April 2, 2010 at 9:30 pm

    Thank you for visint my blog! Yours is also great! Keep in touch! see ya´!

  3. sumana said,

    April 2, 2010 at 9:38 pm

    Thanks for visiting me.. you got an interesting blog 🙂 I love perfumes too, I mean who doesn’t???

  4. jess3rka said,

    April 2, 2010 at 9:56 pm

    You write beautifully, as well. Dior perfume was always a favorite of mine. It always reminds me of a distinctly feminine smell that is not too overpowering… Thanks for visiting my blog!

  5. Alyssa said,

    April 2, 2010 at 10:24 pm

    Thanks for visiting my blog! (Seems you visit a lot?)…
    ANYWAY, I love your blog, so cute! x3

  6. April 2, 2010 at 10:48 pm

    Thanks for visiting my blog!

    I love your blog as well! Very interesting stuff!

  7. Tizio Dell'annata said,

    April 3, 2010 at 12:50 am

    Nice Blog! very informative & enlightening… I will become a member.

  8. April 3, 2010 at 1:22 am

    Love all the background information .the process to me is always as interesting and often makes the end results so much magical.

  9. R.J. said,

    April 3, 2010 at 2:36 am

    Thanks for visiting my new blog earlier today. You’ve got a really good one here. and I bookmarked you.

  10. April 3, 2010 at 3:09 am

    nice pOst!
    u have very beautiful blOg!cOngrats!:)
    Peace!

  11. silkyvelvet said,

    April 3, 2010 at 3:53 am

    your blog is wonderful: so rich with information and treasures.

    p.s. i love the photo of alain delon – a handsome and excellent actor!

  12. silkyvelvet said,

    April 3, 2010 at 3:58 am

    also, I added you to my blogroll ( under ‘alchemy’) in my ‘about’ section.

  13. Bookjourney said,

    April 3, 2010 at 4:18 am

    What a great post…. I had no idea about Edmond Roudnitska. How interesting!

  14. samjacoff said,

    April 3, 2010 at 5:04 am

    Thanks

  15. zrohit said,

    April 3, 2010 at 5:05 am

    Great site, full of wonderful information on an interesting topic.
    Reminds me of a movie I just saw on this topic about a perfume maker
    Perfume: The Story of a Murderer

    thanks
    Rohit

    • sami Alam said,

      April 3, 2010 at 4:04 pm

      wow…Rohit… thank you very much… yea dat’s gr8 movie…. i must say… u knw?? i saw Grasse 1st time in that movie….

  16. ezzylazy said,

    April 3, 2010 at 5:25 am

    such informative artwork….

  17. kseverny said,

    April 3, 2010 at 5:26 am

    wow, a creative heavyweight.
    i see things have improved for you.
    thats great

    • sami Alam said,

      April 3, 2010 at 4:02 pm

      yea kseverny, thank you… you helped me a lot to publish it on a right way….

  18. April 3, 2010 at 5:38 am

    Thank you for visint my blog! Yours is also great! Keep in touch! see you!

  19. April 3, 2010 at 5:47 am

    Merci beaucoup, j’adore ta belle blog ^^

    yours,
    The Librarian

    http://phonicfiction.wordpress.com/

    • sami Alam said,

      April 3, 2010 at 4:00 pm

      vous sont les bienvenus, Im vraiment heureux de voir un Français de se prononcer sur mon blog …

  20. April 3, 2010 at 5:54 am

    Thanks, I read your comment on my blog… again thanks.

    I could learn something from your blog– I love perfume and was just watching something the other day concerning perfume. Thanks, great blog!

    I will be back 🙂

    • sami Alam said,

      April 3, 2010 at 3:58 pm

      thank you… yes im also learning a lot from your blog….

  21. *Renata Costa* said,

    April 3, 2010 at 8:11 am

    Thank you for your visit! 🙂

    Yours is adorable!

    A added your blog adress to read it with more calm in the next few days.

    • sami Alam said,

      April 3, 2010 at 3:51 pm

      it’s a great pleasure to know that… i’ll visit your blog too… 😀

  22. hirach said,

    April 3, 2010 at 3:53 pm

    very nice 🙂 and thank you for visiting my blog.

  23. Nandita Ahmed said,

    April 4, 2010 at 3:14 pm

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  24. sudaree said,

    April 6, 2010 at 8:35 pm

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  25. Heather said,

    June 30, 2010 at 6:33 pm

    I am so happy to have stumbled across your blog! Great article, and now I see so much more to explore and read. Thank you for sharing all of this with all of us.

  26. Tizio Dell'annata said,

    July 1, 2010 at 1:58 am

    Very nice Blog… Please Check out mine when u get a chance… http://onemanscollection.wordpress.com/

  27. sam said,

    January 26, 2011 at 8:06 am

    {Kind regards|Best wishes}

  28. January 26, 2011 at 8:17 am

    You have such a nice blog dear 🙂

    If you would like to read about discontinued perfumes I have a cool blog you may like.

    anyway keep us updated because I will be subscribing

  29. August 17, 2011 at 7:14 am

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  30. September 17, 2011 at 6:19 am

    Fantastic blog! Do you have any helpful hints for aspiring writers? I’m planning to start my own website soon but I’m a little lost on everything. Would you advise starting with a free platform like WordPress or go for a paid option? There are so many choices out there that I’m completely confused .. Any suggestions? Thanks!


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