Opium by YSL, smell of another life…


The son of an insurance company manager, Yves Henri Donat Mathieu Saint Laurent left home at the age of 17 to work for the French designer Christian Dior… 

After winning first prize in the International Wool Secretariat contest for his cocktail dress design in 1954, Yves Saint Laurent landed the job of Haute Couture designer when Dior died in 1957. In 1960, he was conscripted into the French Army… 

 

yves saint laurent

In 1962, in the wake of his nervous breakdown, Saint Laurent was released from Dior and started his own label, YSL, financed by his companion, Pierre Bergé. The Rive Gauche boutiques for women were established in 1966, and men’s wear followed in the 1970s… 

When I was reading his History, it seemed like a fairy tales to me… Can you tell me, why there’s a great story behind every great thing??? 

Don’t know why this happens with me… is it my passions about French or truly French stuffs are so artistic… Every time I go though their ways, I feel like somehow I’ve been there…  

Actually, perfumes have seemed to play a secondary role for Yves Saint Laurent. Perfumes have long been the label’s chief sales engine. Yves Saint Laurent Perfumes, under the direction of Sanofi’s CEO Raymond Ortal, produces and markets perfumes, cosmetics, and personal care products under the Saint Laurent name… WOW…. 

Yves Saint Laurent’s Opium and Rive Gauche have long been leaders in the women’s perfumes market; while Jazz, and, in the mid-1990s, Opium pour Homme, have helped the company capture a share of the men’s perfume market as well. The company also produces its own line of lipsticks, eye shadows, and other makeup products, as well as a line of personal care products, such as lotions and cremes. Whereas production and distribution of perfumes and beauty products are the responsibility of Sanofi, Yves Saint Laurent continues to guide the creative development of products bearing his name. The group’s newest perfume and cosmetics line, In Love Again, expected to be launched as a limited edition in 1998. 

Yves Saint Laurent & Pierre Bergé

 

He launched its first women’s perfume, Y in 1964. In 1971, the design house unveiled its Rive Gauche perfume; that same year, Jean Loup Sieff photographed Yves in the nude for the advertising campaign of his first men’s cologne Pour Hommes. 1977 saw the launch of the very popular Opium perfume. Other YSL fragrance offerings include Baby Doll and Cinema perfumes and Young, Sexy Lovely or YSL, a play on the designer’s initials. 

When Opium hit the market in 1977, women bought it by the gallon. Lolz… 

Opium was so much more than a fragrance. It became an identity. Just as Chanel No. 5 showed its wearer as someone elegant and timeless, the woman who wore Opium signaled that her life was rife with exoticism and secrets, even if she lived in a split level in the suburbs. The Yves Saint Laurent marketing machine fueled this image with print advertisements of mostly naked women surrounded by crimson and shadows. 

 

Maybe the rush toward Opium was a reaction to stagflation and fuel rationing. Maybe it was a response to all the colonial hoo-ha surrounding the Bicentennial. Or maybe it was simply clever marketing. Although Opium stood out among the mid-1970s perfume launches — for instance, the fresh chypre Molyneux Quartz came out the same year, Dana Tabu and Estée Lauder Youth Dew covered the same ground decades before. For whatever reason, Opium was the right fragrance at the right time, and it became a cultural marker… how surprising… 

The Legendary Opium

Even it’s told that “It is forever linked to another life”

Edmond Roudnitska, A French Creator of fragrance


Edmond Roudnitska was more than just a creator of fragrance. He also devoted much of his time to understanding the true sense of the words “to create” and “Creation”.

 Edmond Roudnitska (1905-1996) was a French master perfumer and author. He is known for creating some of the most famous perfumes in the world, such as Dior Eau Sauvage, Diorissimo, and Rochas Femme. Many of his creations are still in production today…

Edmond Roudnitska

 Once Again Coming to Grasse, Edmond Roudnitska was born in Nice as we know that’s very near to Grasse, the fragrance capital of the world. Roudnitska actually entered the fragrance industry lacking education in the vocation that his was later to dicover. With no background in perfume, he learned everything from scratch but was soon promoted to take charge of the physico-chemical control of a fragrance company. Wow… Have you ever think??? Yes, Passion can make everything possible…: D

 A year later, Roudnitska was sent to the Paris to take over from a top perfumer of the company where he was essentially self-taught. A fantastic career followed thanks to all his work and efforts as well as his creative genius. His entire life was a constant creation…

 Through the course of his life, Roudnitska met many influential people from the world of fashion, art and science. Among the most prominent were Marcel Rochas, Christian Dior and Emile Hermès for whom he created his best known fragrances which are still on sale on the international market today…

 In 1946 he founded “Art et Parfum”, a private creative laboratory for perfumery first based in Courbevoie (near Paris) then located in Cabris near Grasse, also his home, where he lived until his death in 1996.

 Perfume Shrine embarked on a mission: to direct and discuss one of the bastions of chypre: la maison Dior in its former glory, when under the baguette of Edmond Roudnitska and Paul Vacher it produced classics that remain up there in the pantheon for all of us to worship.

Rochas Femme

 For him it is not the sense of smell or the materials that are important, but rather the spirit which, playing with forms, will coax the latter with the aid of the former. This point of view had been forgotten for decades when perfumes came out with the eye more on the commercial than the artistic, only to be revived when certain niche companies came into the fore dynamically. Roudnitska bases his axiom in the comparison to other art forms.

 “A beautiful perfume is the one which gives us a shock: a sensory one followed by a psychological one. A beautiful perfume is one with happy proportions and an original form”. He often used to say that.

Dior Eau Sauvage

 He thought, perfume composition should be unique, much like a musical piece, and protected against “plagiarism”. To this he was adamant.

 But it was his meeting with Serge Heftler-Louiche, director of parfums Christian Dior that cemented his style and directed him into a lucrative business and artistic collaboration that lasted for decades and it is interesting to juxtapose the chypres he produced for them with Femme. Christian Dior opened shop in 1945 under the insistence of the businessman Marcel Boussac. A new perspective to fashion was brought with his New Look, which took women back to the era of crinolines, in a way, counter-revolutionising what Cadolle and Chanel had accomplished through the use of pliable materials that helped women become the men in their lives in all areas besides the boudoir.

Diorissimo

 As I said before, The year was 1947 and Dior came out with his first scent, Miss Dior, as homage to his sister. Credited to Paul Vacher, based on a formula suggested by Jean Carles and reorchastrated by Roudnitska in 1992 in extrait de parfum, it is nothing short of a classic and the introduction of a big trend in the coming years: the floral chypre; but with an animalic twist down the line, of which more later on.

But it was in 1949 that Diorama, a fruity chypre, was created by Roudnitska. With it he found a balance between complexity and clear vision that captures several olfactory nuances: spicy, floral, fruity, animalic and all enrobed in a sensual feminine dress.

 Roudnitska’s most successful –commercially certainly! – scent entered the scene in 1966: Eau Sauvage. A chyprish citrus for men with the daring floral note of jasmine through the use of hedione. In this Roudnitska culminated his aesthetic odyssey of the sparseness of composition with an artistic merit that defies criticism. Diorella (1972), with its foot in the fruity tradition of Diorama, was the feminine chypre counterpart to Eau Sauvage, enigmatically relying on very few materials to give a very fresh, very young fragrance and which Roudnitska himself considered one of the best in his career. Dior Dior, a woody floral, issued in 1976, never took off commercially and was destined to be discontinued till now.

 

Dior, love for art by opening an art


“Long after one has forgotten what a woman wore, the memory of her perfume linger”

-Christian Dior

Who was hurting very bad financially in 1935, an old-time friend of his gave him a place to stay and he started his career by sketching dresses and hats. Known as both an innovative fashion designer and a fragrance pioneer who channeled his love for art by opening an art…

Heard that, Christian Dior’s first perfume was released in 1947 and named Miss Dior. One of Dior’s most popular perfumes is Poison. The best thing that attracted me in this, he made a series of perfume as it’s a novel or prose…In 1985, Dior launched Poison… Then in 1994 Tendre Poison… 1998 brought Hypnotic Poison and 2004 brought Pure Poison. The most recent release is Midnight Poison… Wow.. The names are also telling something… isn’t it??

Let’s talk about Miss Dior…

It was 1st perfume of Dior launched in 1947, created by either Paul Vacher or Jean Carles or possibly both, under the direction of Dior’s childhood friend Serge Heftler-Louiche… this perfume also classified as a refreshing, woody, mossy fragrance or a modern fragrance that captures the timeless couture spirit of Dior…

Got in a website, the “Miss” suggests an ingenue quality that this composed and refined perfume belies, in its complexity of notes. And finally, it is way sexier than its later outer presentation would suggest. It also heard that Miss Dior was named after Christian Dior’s sister-“Catherine Dior”

Miss Dior Cherie combines pure couture spirit with the audacity of youthful, playful notes for a fresh approach to a timeless classic. It’s a feminine scent possesses a blend of rose, gardenia, sage, and other green florals. I got that, it’s recommended for daytime wear. And the notes of chic, green tangerine, violette, and pink jasmine mingle with soft patchouli, musk, and delectably sweet strawberry leaves and caramelized popcorn for a delicious scent that’s truly irresistible. Woo….w

Actually Dior has so many legendary perfumes so that I won’t be able to go through each & everyone right now… but I really like to keep in touch with the French magazines that I get in Alliance Française Library… I can get so many new advertisements there…

But 1 more fragrance of Dior that seemed very interesting to me… Yes!! Diorella

For women, was released in 1972 by the design House of Dior. It was inspired by the new attitude of the woman. Yah!! An attitude of confidence and independence that spans across the ages. Seems very insightful… It is a classic clean scent that has been around for a long time, but still remains the perfect scent for the confident modern woman…

More Interesting, In every perfume I saw there’s a best time mentioned to wear that… But here the best time to wear Diorella is when a woman wants… seems like-

“There’s a secret connection of Diorella with the woman’s heart.” Wow…

This fragrance is long lasting and can provoke memories of exotic places and exciting moments. It can embody the natural excitement and confidence of the wearer no matter where life leads her…

Diorella  marked as a classic scent that will never go out of style. This fresh, clean scent has a hint of exotic adventure mixed with feminine confidence and mystique that comes with that confidence. it represents the modern, independent, and confident woman of any year. Diorella is a timeless fragrance and represents the strong feminine beauty that is important to modern women every where and during every time in the history of the world.

Diorella was Roudnitska’s favorite of his creations, among them Femme and Eau Sauvage.(It has been called a “perfected Eau Sauvage” by Luca Turin; some say that it is Eau Sauvage with a drop of peach. If Eau Sauvage is Roudnitska’s overexposed olfactory photograph, and Femme the underexposed one with saturated sueded fruit notes, Diorella is the perfect picture, bright yet warm.