Opium by YSL, smell of another life…


The son of an insurance company manager, Yves Henri Donat Mathieu Saint Laurent left home at the age of 17 to work for the French designer Christian Dior… 

After winning first prize in the International Wool Secretariat contest for his cocktail dress design in 1954, Yves Saint Laurent landed the job of Haute Couture designer when Dior died in 1957. In 1960, he was conscripted into the French Army… 

 

yves saint laurent

In 1962, in the wake of his nervous breakdown, Saint Laurent was released from Dior and started his own label, YSL, financed by his companion, Pierre Bergé. The Rive Gauche boutiques for women were established in 1966, and men’s wear followed in the 1970s… 

When I was reading his History, it seemed like a fairy tales to me… Can you tell me, why there’s a great story behind every great thing??? 

Don’t know why this happens with me… is it my passions about French or truly French stuffs are so artistic… Every time I go though their ways, I feel like somehow I’ve been there…  

Actually, perfumes have seemed to play a secondary role for Yves Saint Laurent. Perfumes have long been the label’s chief sales engine. Yves Saint Laurent Perfumes, under the direction of Sanofi’s CEO Raymond Ortal, produces and markets perfumes, cosmetics, and personal care products under the Saint Laurent name… WOW…. 

Yves Saint Laurent’s Opium and Rive Gauche have long been leaders in the women’s perfumes market; while Jazz, and, in the mid-1990s, Opium pour Homme, have helped the company capture a share of the men’s perfume market as well. The company also produces its own line of lipsticks, eye shadows, and other makeup products, as well as a line of personal care products, such as lotions and cremes. Whereas production and distribution of perfumes and beauty products are the responsibility of Sanofi, Yves Saint Laurent continues to guide the creative development of products bearing his name. The group’s newest perfume and cosmetics line, In Love Again, expected to be launched as a limited edition in 1998. 

Yves Saint Laurent & Pierre Bergé

 

He launched its first women’s perfume, Y in 1964. In 1971, the design house unveiled its Rive Gauche perfume; that same year, Jean Loup Sieff photographed Yves in the nude for the advertising campaign of his first men’s cologne Pour Hommes. 1977 saw the launch of the very popular Opium perfume. Other YSL fragrance offerings include Baby Doll and Cinema perfumes and Young, Sexy Lovely or YSL, a play on the designer’s initials. 

When Opium hit the market in 1977, women bought it by the gallon. Lolz… 

Opium was so much more than a fragrance. It became an identity. Just as Chanel No. 5 showed its wearer as someone elegant and timeless, the woman who wore Opium signaled that her life was rife with exoticism and secrets, even if she lived in a split level in the suburbs. The Yves Saint Laurent marketing machine fueled this image with print advertisements of mostly naked women surrounded by crimson and shadows. 

 

Maybe the rush toward Opium was a reaction to stagflation and fuel rationing. Maybe it was a response to all the colonial hoo-ha surrounding the Bicentennial. Or maybe it was simply clever marketing. Although Opium stood out among the mid-1970s perfume launches — for instance, the fresh chypre Molyneux Quartz came out the same year, Dana Tabu and Estée Lauder Youth Dew covered the same ground decades before. For whatever reason, Opium was the right fragrance at the right time, and it became a cultural marker… how surprising… 

The Legendary Opium

Even it’s told that “It is forever linked to another life”

Dior, love for art by opening an art


“Long after one has forgotten what a woman wore, the memory of her perfume linger”

-Christian Dior

Who was hurting very bad financially in 1935, an old-time friend of his gave him a place to stay and he started his career by sketching dresses and hats. Known as both an innovative fashion designer and a fragrance pioneer who channeled his love for art by opening an art…

Heard that, Christian Dior’s first perfume was released in 1947 and named Miss Dior. One of Dior’s most popular perfumes is Poison. The best thing that attracted me in this, he made a series of perfume as it’s a novel or prose…In 1985, Dior launched Poison… Then in 1994 Tendre Poison… 1998 brought Hypnotic Poison and 2004 brought Pure Poison. The most recent release is Midnight Poison… Wow.. The names are also telling something… isn’t it??

Let’s talk about Miss Dior…

It was 1st perfume of Dior launched in 1947, created by either Paul Vacher or Jean Carles or possibly both, under the direction of Dior’s childhood friend Serge Heftler-Louiche… this perfume also classified as a refreshing, woody, mossy fragrance or a modern fragrance that captures the timeless couture spirit of Dior…

Got in a website, the “Miss” suggests an ingenue quality that this composed and refined perfume belies, in its complexity of notes. And finally, it is way sexier than its later outer presentation would suggest. It also heard that Miss Dior was named after Christian Dior’s sister-“Catherine Dior”

Miss Dior Cherie combines pure couture spirit with the audacity of youthful, playful notes for a fresh approach to a timeless classic. It’s a feminine scent possesses a blend of rose, gardenia, sage, and other green florals. I got that, it’s recommended for daytime wear. And the notes of chic, green tangerine, violette, and pink jasmine mingle with soft patchouli, musk, and delectably sweet strawberry leaves and caramelized popcorn for a delicious scent that’s truly irresistible. Woo….w

Actually Dior has so many legendary perfumes so that I won’t be able to go through each & everyone right now… but I really like to keep in touch with the French magazines that I get in Alliance Française Library… I can get so many new advertisements there…

But 1 more fragrance of Dior that seemed very interesting to me… Yes!! Diorella

For women, was released in 1972 by the design House of Dior. It was inspired by the new attitude of the woman. Yah!! An attitude of confidence and independence that spans across the ages. Seems very insightful… It is a classic clean scent that has been around for a long time, but still remains the perfect scent for the confident modern woman…

More Interesting, In every perfume I saw there’s a best time mentioned to wear that… But here the best time to wear Diorella is when a woman wants… seems like-

“There’s a secret connection of Diorella with the woman’s heart.” Wow…

This fragrance is long lasting and can provoke memories of exotic places and exciting moments. It can embody the natural excitement and confidence of the wearer no matter where life leads her…

Diorella  marked as a classic scent that will never go out of style. This fresh, clean scent has a hint of exotic adventure mixed with feminine confidence and mystique that comes with that confidence. it represents the modern, independent, and confident woman of any year. Diorella is a timeless fragrance and represents the strong feminine beauty that is important to modern women every where and during every time in the history of the world.

Diorella was Roudnitska’s favorite of his creations, among them Femme and Eau Sauvage.(It has been called a “perfected Eau Sauvage” by Luca Turin; some say that it is Eau Sauvage with a drop of peach. If Eau Sauvage is Roudnitska’s overexposed olfactory photograph, and Femme the underexposed one with saturated sueded fruit notes, Diorella is the perfect picture, bright yet warm.

Chanel no.5, an ancient mystery for evermore history


Let me tell you a story of someone called karlak… the story touched my heart… even I was thinking silently and trying to be in the place of her and reach the depth of feel she got…

I’ve pasted it as it was-

“I found it as a child on my grandmother’s dressing table and used up one third of the bottle. My granny was naturally not delighted. She told me that this fragrance is for older ladies only and I can’t use it before being thirty. So I am patiently waiting for my thirties birthday.

In the meanwhile I learned that this eighty-something year old fragrance is one of the best-selling perfumes in the world. It actually made history as it has been generated by mixing eighty natural and artificial scents – and for the first time people could not identify what it was. Before Chanel No. 5 was made, perfumes were just flower scents with poetic names, and some people consider Chanel No. 5 to be a first real perfume.

I tried to guess its composition: I believe I can smell roses, freesia, vanilla, maybe musk and neroli. It is definitively an evening wear; personally, I would never wear it in the morning. I like its square bottle very much: It is generic and simple, yet modern – even nowadays.

I find the perfume concentration superior to the Eau de Toilette and Eau de Perfume. It is pricey, but it is worth every cent. In general, I believe this feminine scent will be around for a while. I hope my grandchildren will discover it on my dressing table one day.

I know the last line stocked in your mind very delicately. I don’t wanna comment more on it and bind you in my words, already thousands of windows got open in your heart… 😀

Now, this is something really trembled me more than a little…

“What do I wear in bed? Why, Chanel No. 5, of course.”

Answered by ever popular with the rich and sophisticated, Marilyn Monroe.

If we ask a random stranger on the street to name a perfume, there’s more chance that he/she would say Chanel No. 5 may be he/she has absolutely no interest in fragrance and doesn’t wear any to sniff a No. 5 test strip. Yah…

an ancient perfume…

a legendary perfume…

a most expensive perfume

& a French perfume 🙂

Even, when we think of designers, luxury and full-on to-die-for glamour, one name that instantly springs to mind is Chanel.

Interesting and true, the signature fragrance Chanel No. 5 was created after a fortune teller told Coco Chanel that her lucky number was five. It was released on the fifth day of the fifth month of the year, May 5th 1921. Ernext Beaux also created four other perfumes for Chanel; they are the little known Bois d’Illes, No. 22, Cuir de Russie, and Gardenie. However, Gardenie has recently been re-released by the House in 2005 with international acclaim, a scent that fuses jasmine with musks.

Yeh… we heard the quote- “there’s a great story behind every great creation.”

Depending on which story we believe, No. 5 was an accident when too much of a particular aldehyde was added to a scent or was a deliberate attempt to replicate Coco’s modern and blatant use of synthetic materials — think of her ropes of faux pearls. Hahaha…

“There was jasmine, rose, gardenia, lily of the valley… For me, No 5 was the first perfume that used flowers – lots of flowers – but that didn’t immediately relate to one in particular.”

The secret to No 5’s intentionally elusive nature and to the fact that, almost 90 years after its inception, it remains almost impossible to pin down, in fact, scientific more than poetic. This was the first fragrance to make use of synthetically replicated molecules taken from products of natural origin and that is aldehydes…

I found out that Chanel No. 5 has kept to the same formula since it was launched in 1921 and we can find out for ourselves what the different components of this perfume are, but to describe I would say that it is a beautiful floral blend with a spicy edge… as far I got…

Coco Chanel had instructed Ernest Beaux to create a fragarance that should be “All about scent and nothing about the bottle.” As I said-out of the five scents samples, she preferred No. 5. “It will bring me luck,” she declared.

According to my study- It has been described as “the world’s most legendary fragrance”, and remains the company’s most famous perfume. Chanel estimates that a bottle is sold worldwide every 30 seconds… not unbelievable but little hard to believe… but the truth is much more stronger than our believe…:D

When Chanel No 5 was first created, Jacques Polge said, “it was very influential and many imitations were created, but those have now all disappeared, which means that No 5 seems more different than ever. I think that today, No 5 really is unique, and that is the most important thing, to create something that is unique.

As is true of many perfumes, No. 5 contains more than one type of aldehyde.

Btw what is Aldehydes???

Aldehydes provide sparkle and can boost the dispersion of some notes. When we get a strong hit of aldehydes right away from a fragrance, chances are that we smell an “aliphatic” aldehyde. Although some people think of a dose of aliphatic aldehydes as “perfume-y” and old fashioned, when Beaux made it the signature of No. 5 and No. 22, it was revolutionary. Wow….

Osmoz(an online magazine dedicated to perfume) describes No. 5 as having top notes of aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, and neroli; a heart of jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, and orris; and a base of vetiver, sandalwood, vanilla, and amber.

So, what exactly does Chanel No 5 smells like? Though I didn’t smelled it so far, may be for my inability to effort a Chanel no 5 for my mom, but I can share some great person’s best words that I might not express such way…

According to Luca Turin, author of The Secret of Scent and, with Tania Sanchez, the recently published Perfumes- Chanel No 5 smells as follows:

“Those who have been brought up on stunted, suburban fragrances must find it hard to accept the existence of such a regally beautiful thing, the top notes surprise every time, a radiant chorus of ylang and rose floating like gold leaf on the chalk-white background of aldehydes. Curiously, this most modern of perfumes evokes an image of great antiquity, perhaps a Scythian jewel on a white dress.

The drydown fades the way white flowers do, slowly becoming soft and flesh-coloured. And to get an idea of No 5’s quality, smell it on a paper strip after 24 hours. Now try this with whatever else you’re wearing. See?”

And according to New York Times perfume critic, Chandler Burr, on the subject. “Chanel No 5 hits you like a bank of white-hot searchlights washing the powdered stars at a movie premiere in Cannes on a dry summer night. If you haven’t smelled it in a while, do so again. It’s great to bathe in that light.”

I really feel speculate when I watch the commercial advertise of Chanel products. Even there were so many popular faces. The original of these was Chanel herself, photographed with perhaps her greatest, and certainly most lucrative, creation in her Paris apartment by Man Ray. Although Marilyn Monroe was never actually signed up by Chanel, she helped to establish No 5’s allure, famously declaring that “a few drops of No 5″ was the only thing she wore in bed….as I said before. Since that time, some of the world’s most beautiful women have represented the fragrance, including the French actresses Catherine Deneuve and Carole Bouquet. More recently, Nicole Kidman became the first Hollywood superstar to promote No 5 in a film and stills captured by the Moulin Rouge

If there is one word I would use to describe it, it would be ‘mystery’. It’s a very mysterious fragrance, and that is a fine quality. A fragrance that lacks mystery is too obvious; it can never last very long.”

If Chanel No 5 were a book, someone asked to Jacques Polge, what would it be?

“Les Liaisons dangereuses,” he replied

And a painting?

“It makes me think of Titian, Venice was very important to Chanel.” he said.

And a film?

“François Truffaut’s Baisés Volés.”

And a piece of music?

“Mozart’s Concerto for Clarinet,” Polge says,

barely pausing for thought. Finally, I wonder of the last answer, if Chanel No 5 were an animal, what would it be?

“That’s easy. It would be a lion. And that lion continues to roar.

And from me, I can tell one thing with keeping hand on my chest… someday I’ll buy a Chanel no 5 for my mom, & that’s also from France… That’s true if the almighty allows me…

But there’s a wish that is never gonna be fulfilled. I got that Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel never got married with anyone as i’m already crushed out at her pictures. How beautiful she was!!! If I was born in that time, still there was a chance for me. Lolz…

1 thing really touched me, in the occasion of the 125th anniversary of Coco Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld designed a special 5 Euro coin. The coin features both a portrait of Coco Chanel and lots of other trademark graphics of the brand. The 5 Euro coin was chosen, as it is a good match with the Chanel No. 5  fragrance.

Grasse, The Perfume Heaven


It is known that in Grasse the most costly and appreciated variety is cultivated, Jasminum Grandiflorum, with the most delicate scent and whose production is reserved for the most exclusive brands. The Grasse jasmine is the only one in the secret formula of Chanel N°5.

“In 1921, if you wanted rose or jasmine, the only place you could find it was Grasse,”

Never been there, but heard the sun lits up giant trees and tiled roofs as they pulled into the town. Its 22 miles from Nice, 11 miles from Cannes, Grasse lies on the famous Route Napoleon. ‘The perfume capital of the world’ and despite four centuries as the Queen of Perfume it still rightly deserves this title. The nearby sea and mountains have had a favourable influence, giving the region a pleasant and healthy temperate climate, and the town’s little buildings lend it an easy charm. Wow..

Many of the most popular French perfumes are developed in the town of Grasse located in the south of France. Grasse has a long history of perfume production and today the perfume industry employs hundreds of people in the town. Part of the reason for the success of Grasse as a perfume manufacturer is that its Mediterranean climate in the south enables the cultivation of many different types of flowers which were then used to extract the perfume essence. Although most modern popular French perfumes rely more on chemicals than floral essences today, more often than not the inspiration for a perfume comes from a natural source such as vanilla, rose or lotus.

16th Century, the perfume industry, spawned and developed by two factors, namely, the cultivation of aromatic plants supplying the tanneries with the raw materials required to perfume leather, and the fashion of perfumed gloves introduced by Catherine of Medicis. Perfumery, as an art form and industry, was born in Grasse. And today, it’s economic and tourist heartbeat is fragrances, used for food flavouring, and for perfumes, soaps and cosmetics.

Flowers are everywhere and Nice has the best flower market of all, over 100 market stalls dedicated to flowers. The February Carnival in Nice is famous for its ‘Battle of the Flowers’ where spectators are pelted with flowers and petals by the lavishly decorated floats as they parade through the City. Visitors and tourists to the City can go on a walking tour around various gardens open to the public, visit greenhouses and perfumeries, there are several excellent Museums dedicated to the History of Perfume and the Fragrance Industry that are worth visiting.

‘Parfumerie Molinard’ is the oldest family run business in France. Founded in 1849 in Grasse you can still visit the original factory rooms where perfumed products are still created with loving attention to detail.  The Head Office, factory and museum are in Grasse, the ‘House of Fragrance’ is in Nice. Perfumers to Royalty, Molinard has worked with Baccarat and René Lalique for many years who have created some stunning perfume bottles for Molinard.

Grasse’s main attraction is the Cathedral, dedicated to Notre Dame du Puy and founded in the 11th century. In the interior, are three works by Rubens and one by Jean-Honore Fragonard, a French painter native of the town. There’s also Saracen Tower, standing at 30 m, monumental gate of the Hotel de ville, Fragonard Museum, established in 1921,International Museum of Perfume, Musee d’Art et d’Histoire de Provence, Church of Placassier, built in 1644, PerfumeBronze parfumeur in old Grasse.

The importance of scent in Grasses’ history is brought to life at the Musée International de la Parfumerie – a museum in the town which provides details of the process of perfume manufacture and covers 3000 years of the industry’s history. The museum’s chief treasure is the travel case of Marie Antoinette and the building also houses a greenhouse where the public can experience the all-encompassing, aromatically fragrant plants and flowers growing at first hand.

It is also known that in Grasse the most costly and appreciated variety is cultivated, Jasminum Grandiflorum, with the most delicate scent and whose production is reserved for the most exclusive brands. The Grasse jasmine is the only one in the secret formula of Chanel N°5.

Aroma, takes me to France…


Feeling happy to see my home and I was walking little fast to reach quickly, cause I was so tired after moving the whole day. Noticed the smile of the watchman and entered the elevator.

WOW… again!!!

A sweet and charming fragrance seized my tiredness & threw somewhere. It’s a lady who left the elevator about 3-4 minutes ago but still her aroma was whispering her tales. Every time I smell it and try to draw that lady till I reach to 5th floor, my home. May be someday I’ll be successful in this sweet mysterious mission….

Fragrance… wraps us with prudence that pierces through our nose and flows direct to our heart. Without any falter our eyes get closed, heart get blown and takes somewhere in heaven. This, not only gives us the sagacity of imagination but also the traditions and customs of our ancient fathers…

Even when we just hear the word Perfume, What first comes to our mind??

Floral, musky, delicate, bold, spicy, sweet, feminine, masculine are all words used to describe something very abstract, a scent.

To smell clean is to be clean… And we smell……

Smell is a window of our heart. Mothers and their babies bond through smell. Smell triggers memories buried long in our unconscious, as our sense of smell is linked directly to the limbic system, the oldest part of the brain, which is the seat of emotion and memory.

Alliance Française, she consigned me a sip of honey of French culture that I became wild to drink the whole bottle. We know, French are rich in each and every type of arty things. Apart of everything, Perfume is incomparable creation by the French, & it made me bound to go though those fragrance-ways they walked 300 years ago. When I started to learn about their perfume customs, it opened my senses.

History books said me it is the Egyptians who invented perfume as a way to anoint and embalm their dead. According to Wikipedia I got, the first perfumes were incense, which explains the actual origins of the word “perfume”. It comes from the Latin words, “per” and “fumus”, which mean “through” and “smoke”. So it was through the burning of resins and woods that these fragrances were achieved. And they were used for religious ceremonies.

I heard, it was in the 18th century that France was introduced with the smell of the perfume and later on perfume industry grown enormously. Now it has completely taken over the perfume industry. And you know what?

“Today French perfume is considered as the best and it is mostly used by upper strata of the society due to its expensive price.”

With the change in perfume industry in the technique, materials and style of perfume formulation, French perfume are now can be availed by the middle income group. Before that, it was considered as a product possessed by only the elite section of the society. Due to the development of new fragrances, perfume has undergone profound changes which helped to bring out the finest quality oil based French perfumes.  And, it made me happy cause at least I could buy one if  I can go to France someday.  Lolzz…

After browsing so many websites, I got Paris is a home for many worlds’ best selling perfumes. And the classic perfumes made by Channel, Yves Saint Laurent and Lagerfeld or Avant Gard perfumes of Jean Paul Gautier and French connection, after getting these names I just started explore their precious life stories along with their manifest creations. First of all its said that “the best French perfumes could be said to be that of “Chanel No. 5” by Coco Chanel and “Joy” by Jean Pateau”.

it was only a start of my journey…